Bombay, Israel and on to Cochin
The next I went with Shailja to take her daughter to nursery for the morning before we headed off fro breakfast with the tabloids. We pottered in the morning looking at the flat they planned to move to in a couple of weeks and exploring the area (Bandra is very fashionable!). After picking her daughter up we went back to their apartment for lunch, I had intended to leave for Pune that after noon, however at around 2 the Peach vodka came out along with Casino Royalee on the projector screen in the main bed room (what a life!), by 7 the wine was opened, and I had a healthy meal of bread and cow cheese! At this point we realised I wouldn’t be leaving so found out when the first bus would be the next day, soon after that I crashed into bed (11ish).
Up at 6am to get the bus was hard work but we managed it Shailja gave me a lift to the stop, where the bus was half an hour late! But the nice Chai guy gave me a free cup of ginger and chai tea, very nice first thing! I made it back to the office finally and pretended to work, which didn’t really happen but I enjoyed my self messing around! I was house bound that night as there were riots in Mahrastra the locals were fighting against the North Indians who move to the state and don’t learn Marati and generally do better than them. There was a lot of damage in Mumbai and in Nasik people were killed. In Pune it wasn’t so bad, but I wasn’t allowed out – except to the gym. Though I was told about this after I had already left to meet a lady from Couch surfing. However I left early and got back fine.
I got woken early that morning (4am) by Praveen returning and then by someone else (6am) dropping off a report to the office and wanting to freshen up before we opened. Praveen had been in Sri Lanka, and didn’t bring me a present! Again I messed around in the office, I had decided to go shopping with the lady who had come to deliver the report. We got an auto went to Laxmi road to find everything closed and so came back. The riots were still going on so no business was open, I just went to the gym as there wasn’t much else I could do.
Thursday was Valentines day, which is surprisingly big here. Varsha in the office dressed up especially and the paper was full of messages. We had no electricity in the office that day so we had a lot of fun messing around and chilling, which is good for the office Morale! The trainers for the security course arrived and so we had a briefing for that (I was a trainer!!) I slipped out to look at some equipment and on the way back picked up a rose for Praveen of which he didn’t give me one in return! Due to a lack of valentines date (Bhrahm had ditched me at the last minute!) I asked Ankur he fancied a non valentines date, which was nice. He bought me chocolate as he thought flowers would give the wrong impression! We went out, everywhere was full of couples or families on dates, I cant believe how India has valentines!
Early in the morning the Security training team (and extras) went out to the field site to do a rekie for the simulation exercise and where things would take place. We had to plan a circular route where the groups would have a corrupt police check point to deal with, get mobbed by afflicted community and then taken hostage by rebels. So after that the rest of the day was boring! I had promised Ankur I would join him for a random death metal gig at a collage that evening followed by a film (the gangster one with Denzel Washington and Russell Crow), that time he bought me non valentines flowers (cos id said id never been given flowers by a guy) he just timed it wrong cos he arrived while the guys from the office were outside so they saw the whole thing! So after a VERY late night (2.30am) I made it home.
At 7.30 I was up and on my way to training (I had a driver for the course to take me from the office to training!) with a flower in my hair! I spent the morning making maps for the groups simulation (very accurate they were too, uni isint a complete waste of time!) but that was about all I did as I wasn’t taking any sessions that day. One of the guys let me drive his car (first time in 6 months) I only messed around in the training area but he would have let me on the roads, not sure im up to that! After training I went to the gym before passing out with exhaustion (I slept so well!).
Another early morning, this time I took two sessions on GPS and Gender based violence(GBV). I spent my lunch cruising restaurants with Praveen to have our social evening which was suitable for the Muslim majority of our training (pleasant place if your not drinking!). Anyway after lunch I did my GBV session that was hard because I had to phrase things delicately where I would much rather be blunt! However it was a good session with no major faupas! After we finished we went off for dinner, I got a bit frustrated as everyone except me understood Hindi (is is very similar to Urdu) o I spent the night being a bit arsy.
Another early morning and this time I was doing the last session of the day, first aid. Unfortunately no one took it seriously and there was much more messing around then teaching. The next morning was to be an early start so I went back and packed for Israel and tried to sleep. However I didn’t sleep well.
So at 5am I was up and ready to go, we were starting this simulation early. We arrived and had breakfast followed by a briefing and a warning that this would be very realistic, the participants had no idea what was coming! I was to entertain them with a GPS exercise until they were called to start the exercise. I however wanted to see this exercise so decided to join one of the groups, which was an experience. The teams had radios, GPS and a map and were told to conduct a needs assessment. The first challenge (apart from following the beautifully made map) was the police check point, which was very beaucratic and corrupt. (the police sergeant was the RedR travel agent with one of the office staff to help out, along with locals from the village to ‘rough us up’ – we had costumes and everything!) It was quickly obvious that as a while women I was more trouble than I was worth, the police homed in on me wanted my passport, papers, visa and more. After 20 minutes of dealing with them we went on.
10 minutes down the road a group of disgruntled villagers mobbed us. We were removed from the land rover, the women instantly grabbed me and called my clothing inappropriate as it wasn’t a sari. The village elder (Praveen) was making demands and discussions were held in Marati. Once we cleared this point it was onto the last challenge, that I knew was coming. A group with guns (yes real guns) stopped the car, pulled us out and covered our heads and tied our arms. Even though I knew what was coming it was scary. They took all my jewellery (I had no money on me which disappointed them). For 10 minutes I heard nothing except a gun shot near by (one of the guy got himself killed!) then I was lead back to the car. It was scarily realistic! One of the other groups left without their women, the rebels had put them back in the car still blindfolded and told the driver to go, they didn’t know until they had left the scene! All in all it was an intense day, it has made me think twice about field work, especially in conflict areas. As a white women I am a very valuable target, I also will always have language issues which is hard when 20 women are grabbing at you and no one tells you whats going on!
After this we headed back to the training centre, where we sat for 2 hours. I was getting more and more frustrated as I had things to do before I left that evening for Israel. Eventually I was taken back to the office to do my last bits of work before I Left. After the quickest trip to the gym ever I grabbed some food and waited for the doctors to arrive back from their training with my computer. I literally grabbed the computer and left. I was on the bus to the airport. I arrived to the airport (I got an auto with another guy off the bus, his company paid for the auto!) it was now 2am I had been up since 5.
At the airport I chilled in the bar with some tea. While there a lady asked me a question about the duty free, I knew she was Israeli straight away and asked if she was on the same flight, of course she was. We started chatting, thanks to Hean the journey was more than bearable. We sat separately for the flight but at Istanbul we had 5 hours to kill. Neither of us slept much on the flight and I was beginning to feel a little silly having been awake for over 24 hours! Istanbul dosent have anywhere to sleep so we sat in a bar, played cards and constantly got told of for dosing. After some cheese cake it was finally time to head to the gate. At the gate we played guess the nationality and watched professional womens basketball team (form Istanbul) and critised their team handbags! Eventually we were on the plane, and only a row away from each other, Hean and I made faces for a while. The flight was fine (the food the best Ive ever had, tomato and mozzarella salad!). The guy next to me had suspicious shakes, I wasn’t sure if he was diabetic so I kept an eye on him, eventually I offered to opened his water or something but he declined. After the meal I got tea and asked for milk, but the air hostess wouldn’t let me have it, as she said it was Turkish tea, not English tea, so I went for the lemon instead. This lead to the guy explaining to me how black tea came about (English tea). We chatted for a while he was from Hafia, he explained his shakes and was impressed I had noticed.
At the airport, very tired now (it was 5pm Israeli time, 8.30 Indian, over 36 hours awake) Hean and I got our bags and were chatting, when she was unexpantly met at the exit, by not only her parents but her boyfriend (of a month). I said my goodbye and got in the Sherout to Jerusalem. I made it to Lola and Normans at 7, exhausted, I was looking forward to my fist meat in 6 months, only to be told they were having vegetarian guests! I quickly changed and attempted to look more awake than I felt. I made it till 9.30 then I had to go to sleep. I love the bed there!
At 7.30 I was up again as I had to go to Tel Aviv to get a new Indian visa. I got there by 11, only to be told the consulate has contracted out visas to a travel agent, they couldn’t do it in 5 days it would take 10. Until I could talk to the consulate I rung Hean, she and I chilled at her boyfriends and she explained they had dated for a month before she went to India, she had been away for 4 months and now he wanted a normal relationship, she was a bit overwhelmed but he had a nice place so she was enjoying it!! After I spoke to the consulate they promised to do my passport in 5 days so I took it to the travel agents and headed back to Jerusalem. There I met Debbie and David at burgers bar for my meat fix! It was great to see them. I went back and slept, I was still knackered.
The next morning me, Lola and Norman went off to the zoo! It was a beautiful winters day and it was a very pleasant morning to amble around. After I left them I went to the Old city to see Chaya and try to find out about the wedding and what I needed to do for the Sheva Brachos.
I had a very relaxing shabbos with Lola and Norman, Lola made me meat, which was great. I slept so I was finally up to date with sleep. After shabbos I met Debbie and David in town and then went back to their apartment just to catch up. Time ran away with me and after getting a taxi back I got in at 2am. The next morning Lola told me off as she didn’t sleep properly until I was back. I spent Sunday morning not doing much, but decided to move into the old city so as not to wake lola and Norman again if I was out late. After tracking down the lesser spotted Moti Berger and bumping into Gil locks I went to Heriarage House. Sunday night I met Kim and Deliah for Sushi!! I managed to convince Kim I was engaged at which she asked for a whisky, she wouldn’t believe I wasn’t. Then I headed back to heritage house in time for curfew.
Monday morning I decided, having promised Saul, to go to Sha’rim a seminary for jewish studies for the day. After I left I went to meet Moti Berger, a Rabbi who I like to talk to. After meeting with him I had a relaxed night with the girls and a bottle of wine in heritage house. Tuesday was the day of my friend Danielle’s wedding, I went to the mall in the morning to buy combats, which I cant seem to find in India. After a long morning of shopping I went back to the old city to prepare the stick we were planning to make Danielle laugh. After the beautification process all the girls from HH headed off to the wedding.
It was at a beautiful location in Jerusalem and was amazing. Danielle looked like and Edwardian bride. There were also a lot of people I knew from the hostel there so I caught with lots of old friends. The only downside was the fact that it was a vegetarian buffet! But the food was great so that made up for it. We decided to get the late bus back, on which I met a Brummie! He has been in Israel for the last 7 years. I vaguely remember him from the Reform, he has to have been the only black convert there! But it turns out he is well known in the Jerusalem parts!
Wednesday morning I dint have much to do so I ambled in the old city. I went to Hadaya to get a new ring, which I like a lot. Then I met up with Jason before heading to town to meet Debbie for swama (she had falafel). We ambled in the Shuk and Saul rung which both enjoyed as talking to him is always good. I met kim and Jackie (from MDA) for dinner, which involved sushi and what I though was non spicy spicy beef, but kim said otherwise!
Thursday morning I was desperately waiting to hear that I would get my passport that evening otherwise it would be $75 to extend my ticket. In the morning Chaya asked if I would take her son to nursery, which I didn’t mind. After that I went to find where they think King David is buried just outside the old city, ive never been there but its really nice. I also went to the holocaust museum just there. After that I went to Bonkers, the best bagels, for lunch. I had offered to pick up Pinchas so was killing time and got chatting to an American (there are a lot in the old city) who said I should join him for the burnt house museum that I had never been to, I had just enough time. It is a house that was discovered after the 1967 war with soot all over it. It is from the 2nd temple period. The ruins and finds are interesting. However the cheesy film with a story they have made up is a waste of money at 20 Sheckles.
After getting Pinchas I went to Chayas while there I decided to go and buy the stuff for the Sheva Brachos the next evening then rather than Friday. I did it in an hour (good stuff) before getting the call about my passport and jumped on a bus to Tel Aviv, I was there less than an hour before heading back to Jerusalem. My phone charger had broken when I needed my phone and I was desperate to get my dying phone charged. When I got back to the Old City Jason plugged my phone into his room mates charger for me. This left me phoneless. Jason said Gideon and some others were in a grill place if I wanted to join them for dinner, I did. I walked in, having not seen Gideon in a while and asked for the biggest piece of cow they had! It was AMAZING steak. After dinner Gideon and the others went to Daven at the wall, while me a Johnny went for a drink! I was supposed to be back by 12, but after a dash back, I arranged other means of entry to HH and ended up talking till 2 with the guys.
At 4 I was awake again. This time I was meeting some of the guy from the mens HH to go to Hebron and the tomb of the patriarharcs. I had been over the summer and really liked the place. It had been suggested I should go and someone mentioned the bus that leaves at 5am, so I thought why not. I was regretting it though after only 2 hours sleep! I got on the bus and stared out the window. The bus stops briefly at Rachel’s tomb in Bethlehem. It is surrounded by guards and has the wall going right up to it, its like entering into a prison but it was worth it. I had not been before and it is supposed to be a place more for women than men. It’s a lot like the tomb of the patricharcs and is very atmospheric. However 10 mins is not enough time! Back on the bus and it was off to Hebron. This time a nice lady originally from Holland sat next to me and we chatted about many things. Her daughter is in the army’s search and rescure unit and she asked about other things.
At Hebron morning services were being conducted and everyone from the bus went to do their own thing. There are buses from all over that come on a Friday morning as people want to go before Shabbos. I Davened and walked around, the area is surprisingly peaceful considering the tension in the area. I like it at Hebron I find it more moving than the Wall and it is less busy, those that are there (espically at 6am) are not so much tourists as there for the religious reasons. I suppose it’s a more spiritually moving place, especially as your not fighting for space like at the Wall. So after an hour it was back on the bus, one of the guys on the bus I knew form Tsvat in the summer, it was great to meet him again! I was sitting elsewhere this time and was happily watching the world go by when the Dutch lady came up to me and gave me her Siddur (prayer book). I was speechless and I said I couldn’t accept but she insisted (it is an interlinear book, where the English is below the Hebrew word, I had commented that I wanted one to improve my Hebrew) in the front it had her name and telephone number and I promised on my next visit to stay for shabbos. I couldn’t help smiling all the way back!
I was back in the old city by 8.30 (just as the others were getting up) and as I wasn’t tired I went to Parsha class to learn about the bit of Torah to be read that week. At around 11 I went to Chaya’s to crash on the sofa, but Pinchas had other ideas! Eventually after a 20 min dose I went to for pizza and to meet Jason as I wanted something from him. He escorted me to Jaffa gate as I had to meet a taxi with a package for me. One of the Israelis I know form Pune is from Jerusalem. His brother had just got married so his mum sent the photos on CD along with 2 jars of olives in liquid and 2 jars of coffee. I was worried how I would carry it all! Anyway after another afternoon wandering the old city and some crazy conversations in a book shop with Jason and David I went back to change for shabbos. I had still only had 2.5 hours sleep!
For dinner I was at Chaya’s. After going to the Wall with the girls I headed over. When Danielle had announced her marriage I had offered to do a Sheva Brachos (for 7 nights after the wedding friends host the couple for dinner). When she agreed I emailed Chaya to ask for help. Since then no one told me anything. When I arrived to Israel Chaya had done all the work and most of the cooking, so I never really did anything, though I did buy desert! So for dinner we had some Yeshiva boys, and some of Danielle and Adams family and that was it. It was really good. Adam is vegetarian, but Chaya had asked if we could have a meat Sheva Brachos as I was coming from India and needed my meat fix!! So there was no chicken soup but the beef was amazing and Chayas first attempt at cooking tofu wasn’t so bad, not that Matan would give the leftovers freezer space! My desert was a mix of healthy (from danielles favourite bakery) and non healthy (from my favourite bakery) biscuits and fruit, I went to great effort! I had also done the decorating, I got Danielle a princess hat and adam a kings hat, I preferred it to his black one! After dinner I walked with everyone to Jaffa gate and said my goodbyes – I still cant believe danielles married!
The next morning I slept late for me, till 9. Then after a slow morning me and Tirzah left for the long walk to lunch. We were going to Debbie and Davids, they didn’t know Tirzah, I picked her up in HH. Chaya had drawn us a map with writing neither of us could read, it turned out when we asked for directions we were on the right road! After turning up on time to find Debbie with no hair on and David in his slippers, we ate. It turns out Debbie knew Tirzah as she had met her on a bus when Tirzah had first got here and invited her for shabbos. Tirzah not wanting to go to a strangers for shabbos had never called. It was obviously meant for her to eat debbies cooking! Debbie is an amazing cook, she has been married six months and her food is amazing, I hope when I get married my cooking is as good! After eating way too much and talking and fighting we headed back for havdallah. Neither me nor tirzah fancied 3rd meal so we ambled until we knew shabbos was out.
After shabbos I decided to face the task of packing. I had to really wrestle with my bag to get those 2 jars of olives in, but I did it. I had to be up at 6 for my bus to the airport. So I met Debbie for soup that night. One of the girls who had been at HH but was now staying at her seminary came back for the night to say goodbye, I was really flattered! So the 3 of us went for soup in the new mall near the old city. I was moaning cos they didn’t want meat and I wanted my last meal to be meat. But its was fun none the less. Davis joined us and another girl form the hostel and then Jason came to take me for meat!! After an almost tearful goodbye to Debbie, where she tired to convince me to stay, we headed to town, where Jason saw everyone he knew and Johnny! Finally we got to burgers bar and after saying I wasn’t hungry I ate half a steak salad, I love steak! I got to bed at 1.
At 6 I crammed in the last few bits to my bag and left. For the first time I wasn’t ready to leave Israel, I realise how many friends I have there, and as it is a good compromise between the UK and India I like it. I realised soon after I arrived to Israel that the traffic I was thought dangerous, was sedate. The streets were not dirty but clean and there is no animal problem, not compared to India! The best way (for those of you that have been to Israel) to describe India is like Israel on acid!! Israel is a nice in between ground where I don’t stick out as much and I feel part of it, not an observer.
SO at the airport I called Debbie who said it wasn’t too late to change my ticket! I considered macdonalds for breakfast but chickened out! I wish I had though as they didn’t have me as veggie so I couldn’t eat the cold meat stuff I got on the plane. My 5 hours at Istanbul were not as much fun as the last time, once my laptop died I only had my book let. 4 hours of reading later I was on the plane to Mumbai. As usual I couldn’t sleep so when I arrived at 4 am I was knackered. Someone I met through couch surfing had offered me a bed, even at that ungodly hour so I got a taxi over to her place. I was a bit of a mission to find but I did it, after refusing to give driver any extra (it was prepaid). I fell into bed. At 10 I got woken by noises. Because of the extra stuff I had in my bag I decided to head to Pune. At 1 I was on my way again. I made it to Pune at 6 at went to the office as I had a deadline for some work. I worked late before unpacking all my stuff and repacking for Cochin. I met Ankur for dinner and very tired got to bed at 1.
At 9.30 I was back in the office and desperately trying not to fall asleep at the computer! I finished off the proposal and left again back to Mumbai and back to Neesha’s. I am now getting ready to go to Goa tomorrow night then from there to Cochin for the weekend. It is for a womens couch surfing meeting. It looks like fun and I don’t have much else to do so I thought y not, ive not been to Cochin. Apart form being thoroughly drained I am enjoying this busier life style!!